Day #1 - First Day On the Trail- Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek

Skipper George welcomes us to the Water Taxi

When Brian and I get up (Friday), we do our final packing, and load what we aren't taking, into the van (the clothes we traveled in and Brian's hatchet because it is too large and heavy and we expect to

Fellow passengers

have plenty of wood to burn).

At the motel restaurant we have our last cooked meal.  We check out, load on our backpacks, and walk a block to the Marina to catch the Water Taxi.  The sky is overcast, but no rain.

Leaving the harbour I am struck by the awesome natural rugged beauty of rocks and trees.  Dolphins  unexpectedly pop up within ten minutes of leaving the dock.

Glen Lion Motel in back of Marina

Two of the passengers are hikers from Montana.  The remaining three passengers are daytripping to and from Shushartie Bay.

There are no toilets on the 12-passenger boat so Skipper George slowed down to enable one of the men, a diabetic, to pee from the stern off the boat.  This fellow and his son have ridden from Alberta on their Vulcan motorcycles to visit a friend in Port Hardy.  This is their first time on the Coast.

During the one-hour boat trip to Shushartie Bay, the Trail Head, Skipper George fills us in on what to expect.

A Foggy Greeting at the Trail Head at Shushartie Bay

As we near the Bay, we hit dense flog.  George uses his instrumentation to safely land us.  Within 200 feet of the rocky shore the fog suddenly lifts.  We see rocks and an ancient, old growth forest, ascending up the grade about 800 feet into the air.

Brian disembarking from the Water Taxi

Majesty!

About ten minutes after we are dropped and the Water Taxi has gone, we notice a bear about a half a kilometer across the Bay.  Our first sighting of wild life!

The four of us hikers arrange our packs and whatnot.  We take some pictures, orient ourselves and have a bite.  We looked at the Park Map.  There is a Tide Table and a booth  for people who haven't already done so, to pay their park fees and register to hike.  We don't hit the trail until almost 10 a.m

Up and At 'Em... Hitting the Trail from Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek

Our goal is to make it to Skinner Creek (8.7 km) by sunset.  We understand that there are no drinking water sources between the Trail Head at Shushartie and Skinner Creek.

Right off the bat we're climbing a steep, wet and muddy incline but we have a rope to hang on to and pull

Not Steps- Just Boards Jammed into the Side of the Trail

ourselves up.

The next two hours most of the terrain is very difficult-- we are constantly going up, and have to use ropes several times.  It is steep with lots of slippery, wet mud, some over a foot deep.  There are many big tree roots and logs to climb over. During the same period, it is raining lightly and a light fog swathes us.  Discouraged, I wonder what I have gotten myself into.

After the initial two hours the trail continues to be muddy, up and down and winding but with only a few steep elevation gains and drops.  Usually ropes are there to assist.

We start to encounter a few sections that have greasy wooden steps, and there are sections of boardwalk. Progress is slow due to the muddy and challenging conditions.

Ladder Down the Rabbit Hole?

I take heart in knowing that this day's trek is supposed to be the most difficult day of the total trail.  We pass through some areas of huge, old growth trees.  Around mid-afternoon, Brian who has a better go at it, asks if it's okay if he goes ahead to Skinner Creek to set up camp ahead of us.  I agree that that is a good idea.

Help Getting Down... (?)

Around 4 pm I have to stop because I experience debilitating leg cramps and over the following hours I have to stop six times to massage my legs, straighten and shake them out.  I know the cramps are because I am dehydratd-- I've packed only a litre and a half of water in the morning, all I had capacity for.

The two women hikers catch up with me.  We hike together for a short while, and while we hike a boardwalk section we see a small sign stuck in the ground that reads: 4.3 km- Halfway Point. Here it is almost 5pm and we can hardly believe that we are only halfway to the Skinner Creek Campsite.

Stuck to the sign is a note from my friend, Brian.  He states that he has broken one of his hiking poles, and

From Time to Time: Boardwalk Joy

that after he sets up camp he will come back and help me carry my pack.  I have mixed feelings.  We aren't sure how much longer it will take to get there, but the gesture of my friend's to come back and help me, makes me less discouraged and more optimistic.

I assume that the remaining leg of the day's hike will be somewhat easier because of what we have already gone through.  However, I am tired, dehydrated, and lacking in energy.  The two women hikers decide to go ahead because they are worried about getting to the campsite after dark. I am okay with their decision.

I plod along, stopping occasionally to rest and massage my leg.  Ironically, walking through the mud is easier on my left bad knee than walking on the boardwalk.

Another Part of the Long and Winding Trail

I felt fairly positive because the trail is intermittent boardwalk and not as rough as earlier today.  After 9 pm dark is falling gradually and I am slowed to a snail's pace.  I am also wondering what happened to Brian-- I know I am much closer to the Campsite and I assumed that he will be back to pick me up sooner.  I battle worries about being lost (I don't have a map-- I gave it to Brian) and fear that dangerous wildlife will begin to become interested in me.  I haven't seen any wildlife except for a grouse and the bear in Shushardie Bay when we have set out, but the shadows are rife with possibility.

On my next stop I drink a little water, realized I had eaten much, and had a couple of Clif bars.  I got out my flashlight and read over the notes I had compiled.  I prayed for God to get me to a campsite soon.

Mo Trail, Mo Mud

I continue to plod along.  There are some difficult sections because I am not descending towards the ocean.  I have not heard the roar of the surf for past two hours.  (I discover later that I was hiking parallel to the ocean.)

At around 10:30pm I came to a T in the Trail and choose to keep on going straight ahead.  The Trail appears hazardously steep in the dark with only my little flashlight to guide me.  I turn around and go back up to the T location.  I noticed a little homemade wood sign with an arrow pointing to what turned out to be the right.

I strain to consult my notes.  I head slowly in the direction of the arrow and in less than a minute I come to steps going down and know in my bones that I am nearing Skinner Creek.  I stay to the right and crouch down to limp under two large fallen trees.  In the dark it is a challenge to find out where I am.  After what seems like a much longer time than it actually is, I am at the beach and see Skinner Creek to the left

Meal Interrupted: Carnage en route

and not too far away I catch the light of flashlights waving.  When they see my flashlight they (the three of them and another hiker coming from the other direction) start yelling and cheering.

Brian immediately gives me a litre of water from the Creek to drink.  Everyone tells me how happy they are to see me.  He also fills up my bottles as I go to set up my tent.  I am beyond exhausted.

I am in a state of shock and trembling.  Keeping the lentil supper down is a task because of my shaking.

I learn that Brian has also been having leg cramps and wasn't able to come back to get me.  I am so thankful to God for bringing me to safety for the night.

Another segment of the trail (above): I promise I will never complain about taking the dog for a walk again!

______________________________________________
Anything mentioned in this blog that is of a "health or medical nature" is the opinion and/or experience of the blogger and not an endorsement or a cure. Please see your trusted health professional.